As early as 1948, there are mentions of a gay tea shop in Shinjuku, and by the 1950s, gay bars began to emerge publicly in the area. As an experienced resident, Cortez can navigate these small spaces and interact fluently with other patrons and with bar masters, but cautions newcomers against going without a friend group familiar with the area.
Another person with strong connections to Ni-chome is Yuna Sun, one of the bartenders at the lesbian bar Gold Finger.
Club owners, often called "masters" or "mama-sans," curate their clientele carefully. Ni-chōme's unique atmosphere is characterized by its bustling energy, colorful signage, and the warm camaraderie among patrons and staff alike.
Rainbow Flag at Gapan Cafe, Shinjuku 2-Chome, Tokyo
History and evolution of Shinjuku's gay scene
The history of Ni-chōme as a gay neighborhood dates back to the American Occupation of Japan (1945-1952).
Avoiding dehumanizing the people in the neighborhood or turning them into a spectacle with non-consensual photography or gawking. The atmosphere is cozy and welcoming, and the mama here is absolutely lovely.
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Just because we dress boldly doesn’t mean boundaries don’t matter. Bar, dance clubs like New Sazae, and international ‘mix’ bars and clubs like Eagle Tokyo Blue, AiiRO, Alamas Cafe, and AiSOTOPE Lounge.
The hidden gem, "Hana-chan Curry," recreates a beloved family recipe from staff member Hana’s childhood home.
"The chicken is tender and juicy. Now celebrating its 10th anniversary, this beloved bar is known for its open-air vibe—guests can sip drinks inside or out front.
Staff member Chris, whose Instagram posts keep regular customers entertained.
Though compact inside, the space naturally encourages conversation with fellow patrons.
It continues to evolve, adapting to changing social norms and technology while maintaining its role as a crucial space for community, advocacy, and celebration of LGBTQ+ identity in Japan.
Like most other major cities around the globe, Tokyo is home to a rich, vibrant, and diverse LGBTQ scene. With approximately 9.7% of Japan’s population identifying as queer, one can estimate that over 1.3 million LGBTQ people call this city home — and can call Tokyo’s historic gay neighborhoods their home-within-the-home.
A Brief History of Tokyo’s Gay Towns
While different pockets of queer nightlife can be found scattered throughout the city, by and large most of the community concentrates across Tokyo’s five historic gay neighborhoods: Ueno, Shimbashi, Ikebukuro, Asakusa, and (largest of all) Shinjuku Ni-chome. Ueno and Asakusa are among the oldest, and were known as hubs for gay sex workers and gay male socializing since the Edo era (1600-1868) when gay male sociality went under the term danshoku or nanshoku 男色 (male colors).
The other neighborhoods all date back to the 1950s or 60s period of postwar Japan, when Tokyo’s LGBTQ water trade or mizu-shobai 水商売 received an economic boost from catering to US soldiers.
Today, it has grown into a vibrant nightlife district with 300–400 establishments, including gay bars, lesbian bars, and mixed bars that welcome people regardless of gender or sexuality. The deeper you venture into Ni-chome’s alleyways, the smaller and more exclusive these box-like bars become.
But this bar is wonderfully LGBTQ+ friendly, and it immediately puts me at ease. “So, when I got the chance to work behind the bar and keep the other gays and ‘theys’ safe, I took it.”
For Sun, Cortez, and thousands of other queer people in Tokyo, of every nationality, sexuality, and gender in existence, Ni-chome means home.
Respect and human decency always come first." ( Labianna)
Same-sex marriage has yet to be legalized in Japan, and there are still no comprehensive laws to protect LGBTQ+ individuals. Bookmark the permalink. And the curry—add a raw egg and it becomes so mild and delicious!" (Labianna)
You can also pre-order one of their beloved bento boxes through Instagram DMs—Labianna highly recommends them.
Raise a Glass at "AiiRO CAFE," One of Nichome’s Most Welcoming Bars
After dinner, head to Nakadori, the district’s main street.
You’ll spot "AiiRO CAFE" by its striking rainbow torii gate. Some venues may charge different entrance fees based on gender or appearance to maintain their desired atmosphere. In his chapter, “Lifestyles in the Gay Bars” in Queer Voices written in 1955, Kazuhiko Kabiya states that Ueno at this time only had one gay bar; there are now roughly 100.
Ni-chome’s own origins particularly intertwine with the occupation: a former red-light district for straights, Ni-chome faced an exodus of its sex workers following the 1956 Prostitution Prevention Law; the gays promptly moved in.
In all major cities of Japan, these gay towns have served an important function as social hubs and safe spaces for queer folk to mingle and find love.
Together with the diversity of Ni-chome’s venues, these fluid social spaces are a rare opportunity for the different sects of the LGBTQ community to truly blend and intermingle.
How to Enjoy Shinjuku Ni-chome
The most important things to keep in mind when visiting Shinjuku Ni-chome (or any gay town, for that matter) is to go in with a respectful attitude, an open heart, and a pragmatic mindset.
While there is still a red light aspect to Ni-chome, the neighborhood today has expanded to a place for general queer socializing, clubbing, and dating, as well as a good spot for drag shows.
What is truly special about Ni-chome is not its size or the number of its venues, however, but its diversity.